Frequently Asked Questions – Divergent Drywall Solutions

Plaster repair involves fixing cracks, holes, or damaged areas in plaster walls or ceilings to restore their smooth, durable finish.

Small holes can be filled with patching plaster or joint compound. Larger holes may require applying a mesh patch or replacing a section of plaster before applying finishing compounds.

Common tools include a putty knife, trowel, hawk, sanding block, plaster mixer, mesh tape or patch, and sometimes a plaster float for finishing.

Drying times depend on plaster type and thickness, typically ranging from a few hours to 24 hours per coat.

It’s best to remove loose or flaking paint and lightly sand the surface before applying plaster to ensure good adhesion.

Common techniques include stippling, combing, or using specialty tools like brushes or rollers to replicate the existing texture while the plaster is still wet.

Cracks can result from settling, moisture changes, vibrations, or structural movement.

Proper surface preparation, using mesh tape or reinforcing materials, and controlling environmental factors like humidity can help prevent future cracks.

Yes, after the plaster is fully dry and sanded smooth, it can be primed and painted to match surrounding surfaces.

For large areas, structural cracks, extensive damage, or historic plaster, it’s advisable to hire a professional to ensure proper repair and finish.

A moisture barrier is a material installed to prevent moisture from passing through walls, floors, or ceilings, protecting structures from water damage, mold, and mildew.

Moisture barriers are commonly installed under concrete slabs, beneath flooring, behind walls (especially in basements), crawl spaces, and around foundations.

Common moisture barrier materials include polyethylene plastic sheeting, rubber membranes, spray-on coatings, foil-faced insulation, and specialized vapor barrier paints.

Signs include visible moisture, mold or mildew growth, peeling paint, warped or damaged flooring, musty odors, or water stains.

Yes, many moisture barriers like plastic sheeting or vapor barriers can be installed by homeowners with basic DIY skills, but professional installation is recommended for complex situations.

After grading and compacting the soil, lay down overlapping polyethylene sheeting, seal seams with tape, and extend the barrier up walls or footings before pouring the concrete.

A vapor barrier specifically blocks water vapor transmission, while a moisture barrier can block liquid water as well. However, the terms are often used interchangeably.

Repair involves cleaning the damaged area, drying it completely, patching tears or holes with compatible materials (e.g., additional plastic sheeting and waterproof tape), or replacing sections if needed.

Yes, by preventing moisture intrusion, moisture barriers reduce conditions that promote mold growth.

Many building codes require moisture barriers in certain areas like crawl spaces, under slabs, and basement walls. Check local codes for specific requirements.

Quality moisture barriers properly installed can last decades, but exposure to damage or UV light can reduce their lifespan.

Yes, retrofitting moisture barriers is possible but may require accessing crawl spaces, removing flooring, or exterior excavation.

Wood surfaces like decks, fences, siding, and outdoor furniture are commonly stained to protect and enhance natural grain.

There are transparent, semi-transparent, and solid stains, which offer varying levels of color and UV protection.

Clean the wood thoroughly to remove dirt and mildew, sand rough spots if needed, and allow the surface to dry completely before applying stain.

Generally every 2-3 years, but it depends on the product used, exposure to weather, and wear.

Yes, but you must remove or weather the stain surface, and clean properly before applying primer and paint.

Exterior pressure washing uses a high-pressure water spray to remove dirt, mildew, mold, grime, loose paint, and other contaminants from surfaces like siding, decks, driveways, and patios.

Common surfaces include vinyl, wood, brick, stucco, concrete, and stone. However, some delicate surfaces require lower pressure or alternative cleaning methods.

Not always. High pressure can damage soft materials like wood, stucco, or older paint. It’s important to adjust pressure settings and use appropriate nozzles.

Generally, once a year is recommended, but it depends on local climate, surrounding vegetation, and amount of dirt buildup.

Yes, homeowners can pressure wash with rental or consumer-grade equipment, but it requires safety precautions, proper technique, and knowledge to avoid damage.

Avoid using too high pressure, directing the spray at windows or vents, neglecting protective gear, and not protecting nearby plants or electrical outlets.

Yes, pressure washing combined with proper cleaning solutions effectively removes mold, mildew, and algae from exterior surfaces.

Time varies by house size and surface condition but usually takes 1 to 4 hours.

Yes, it’s often an essential step to clean and remove loose paint or debris for better adhesion.

Using water alone is eco-friendly; however, some cleaning solutions may impact plants or runoff, so choose biodegradable products and follow best practices.

Prices depend on property size and services but typically range from $200 to $500 for an average home exterior.

Pressure washing cleans surfaces but doesn’t repair damage. Stains might be removed if they are surface-level.

Professionals have the experience, equipment, and knowledge to clean efficiently while minimizing damage risk, especially for large jobs or delicate surfaces.